FCO di Fiumicino: Bet You Can't Eat Just One Meter

Fig.1. Yes, it tastes as good as it looks. 

I have always held the position that finding a pizza outside of Italy that tastes like it does in Italy is impossible.  Bottega was the first pizza joint to make me reconsider my opinion. While the pizza at Bottega came pretty close to una vera pizza Napolitana vis a vis the crust, the flavor of the tomatoes and the freshness of the cheese still lacked compared to the red and white stuff grown and pulled in Italy. Enter FCO di Fiumicino, the pizzeria that makes it easy for me to imagine a dolce vita with every bite.

Fig.2. Actually, it tastes better than it looks.

FCO di Fiumicino is the brain-child of Dino Palmieri, and his idea was as brilliant as it was logically obvious: If you want pizza to taste like it does in Italy, get an Italian to make it; and not an immigrant-spawned, Montreal-Quebec-Canadian-Italian like myself or Dino, but a real bona fide Italiano. The Mediterranean species who take great pizza for granted because they can buy pizza at a gas station in Italy that’s better than most of the pies we have here in Montreal. The bona fide Italians in this case are Filomena and Sacha, (both of who hail from the province of Frosinone) and to say they make great pizza is an understatement.  

The pizza style served up at FCO di Fiumicino is known in Italy as Pizza Al Metro-which translates to, pizza by the meter. And while you don’t have to eat a meter in one sitting, you might just want to when you taste it.  “There’s more to Italian pizza than pizza Napolitana” says Palmieri. Indeed, pizza styles in Italy vary from region to region: pizza in Rome and pizza in Sicily are both different and equally delicious.  Palmieri was inspired on his many trips to Italy, especially with the pizza al metro made in and around Rome.  Lucky for us all, he brought this pizza formula back with him.

Fig.3. Lots to choose from.

On my last visit to FCO, I ate a pizza topped with mozzarella and tomatoes that was so freggin good, I thought I was in Italy. It was only when I finished eating the pizza, that I remembered I was in Montreal.  (In case you’re wondering what the name of the restaurant means, F.C.O is the designated airport code and Fiumicino is the city in which you’ll find the Leonardo Da Vinci Airport, Rome’s major international airport.)

But what about the, ‘ingredients here not being as good as in Italy' argument?  Palmieri's way around this quandary is equally as simple: use Italian ingredients that travel well—such as 00 flour—and top the pizzas with seasonal and local ingredients, such as cherry tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, and mushrooms. As for the cooking vehicle, FCO’s oven hails straight from Italy—Les Marches to be exact. “It’s all stone on the inside” says Palmieri “The stone maintains a consistent heat, it’s the only one of its kind in Quebec.

Fig.4. Entrance to pizza heaven.

Fig.5. Don't know whether to eat it or frame it.

Seeing and tasting the pizza at FCO di Fiumicino, you can’t help but notice something that transcends taste: It’s a visual cacophony of color and design, an exactitude enacted upon each slice of pizza in which one can’t help but notice a beautiful symmetry of ingredients.  It doesn’t matter if the pizza is sparse or laden, all it takes is one look to know that Signore Palmieri is proud of his pizza, and rightly so.

Fig.6. Best gelato in Montreal, hands down.

I also want to point out that I could have written the same article about FCO’s gelato. Replace the word ‘Pizza’ with the word ‘Gelato’ in the above article and you have yet another reason to stay in Montreal. (Also, gelato doesn’t go in the oven so remove the oven paragraph.) In my opinion it’s the best gelato in Montreal hands down.

Also, this month is pizza month according to some, but, if you're like me, every month is pizza month.

FCO di Fiumicino:
451 Viger Ave W  Montreal, QC H2Z 1G6
(514) 861-3636

Fig.7. pizza with fresh local veg.

Fig.8. It's never too cold for gelato.

Fig.9. More pizza

Fig.10. Still more pizza.

Summer Flowers-Eat 'em While You Can.

Fig.1. A Flowery Omelet

Summer is coming to a close which means zucchini flower stores are diminishing fast.  The Birri Brothers in the Jean Talon Market still has the flowers available and I suggest you pick some up and get some summer into your mouth before potatoes, beets, squash and cabbage dispense a hostel take-over on the Birris. 

There was a time when delicacies such as Zucchini flowers were only available for a few short weeks, now, because of greenhouses and restaurant demands; the flowers are available all summer.  But all good things must come to an end so get some before they’re gone and make an omelet.

Fig.2. Use a non-stick

Omelet With Zucchini Flowers, Potatoes and Onions.

Some people remove the inner part of the flower. I’m referring to the stamen or pistils in the center of the flower, the part covered by the pedals. I generally eat them. I do, however, look into each flower just to make sure no ants are napping in there. Eating an ant will not hurt you, like my son likes to say, ‘it’s protein’.

Fig.3. Mis-en-place

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons of olive oil

6 small potatoes, diced small

1 onion, chopped,

6 to 8 zucchini flowers

4 eggs

Salt and pepper, to taste.

Fig.4. Prepped

Directions:

Add the oil to a large, non-stick pan set over medium high heat. Add the potatoes and onions and cook until potatoes brown slightly, about 15 to 20 minutes. (this part is important. Getting your potatoes golden brown will make them taste like French fries, make sure you stir occasionally. That’s why I add 5 tablespoons of olive oil, because the potatoes need to be cooked proper.) Add the zucchini flowers evenly about the pan but don’t stir. Whip the eggs until they homogenize, lower the heat to medium-low and add the egg.  Cook until the surface of the omelet solidifies but doesn’t dry up. Add salt and pepper and eat. Great for lunch the next day in a Panini.

Maine-ly Good

I have a passion for Maine that lies in her sandy beaches, hides in her misty mornings, and is fed by her ocean of seafood.

As a child my parents would do the trek down to Old Orchard Beach every construction holiday, my sister and I along for the ride. I remember the smells of the boardwalk, my father’s longing for lobster, and my mother’s craving for fried seafood platters.  My parents may have unwillingly instilled their longings and desires for seafood into me (as well as some issues demanding serious therapy) because the flavors of the sea draw me to Maine, and this year, the yearnings got the better of me.

If my pictures below make you want to head to Maine, then my intentions will have been fulfilled.

Fig.1. First stop, the Portland Lobster Co, located on the docks of Portland Harbor. Recommended by locals. 

Fig.2. Ordering in the rough. It's a term used in Maine. It means you're in a seafood restaurant in which you order your food at a counter, at which point you're given a number; you pick up your food at another counter when your number is called.

Fig.3. The dangers of eating outside and harbor-side in Portland, Maine.

Fig.3.5. Lobter roll and fried clams.

Fig.4. Clam Chowder (on the thick side) and steamers. (Basically steamed clams. You dip them in water first to wash off the sand and grit, then dunk them in drawn butter.)

Fig.5. Crab sandwich, fried clams, and chowder.

Fig.6. The artisan coffee craze has also hit Portland. Coffee beans roasted over wood, a first for me. The espresso was bitter (in a good way) and on the strong side (in a good way) and rather expensive. (In a bad way)

Fig.7. Later that morning, we went lobster fishing. 

Fig.8. Captain Dan from Lucky Catch informs us deckhands on the rules. The lobster he's holding is a 'keepa'

Fig.9. J's Oyster located along Portland harbor.

Fig.9.5. The freshest and best steamed clams I've ever had. J's Oyster has four clam steamer ovens specifically designed to do nothing except steam clams. 

Fig.10. The freshest oysters I have ever had. Great place.

Fig.11. If you're in Portland and want to cook your fish or seafood yourself, Harbor Fish Market's the place; the ocean is literally 50 feet away from this place.

Fig.12. The Clam Shack in Kennebunk. The best lobster roll and fried clams in Southern Maine.

Fig.13. The Clam Shack's lobster roll; fresh and perfect. Plump, fried, fat-bellied clams, and freshly squeezed lemonade. My dinner companion claimed this to be, "a perfect meal" I would have to agree. (except when I need a plate a pasta.)

Fig.14. We went to the Maine Diner based on the recommendations of a book I bought, and because they appeared in Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. The seafood chowder was fantastic: tasty and none too thick. The accompanying cornbread also good. The rest of the meal best forgotten.

Fig.15. The next night's supper much better.  Fresh Lobster at The Cape Neddick Lobster Pound in Neddick.

Fig.16. Breakfast at Pie in The Sky in York.

Fig.17. Plethora of pies.

Fig.18. They don't make mixers like this anymore. The baker informed me it's close to 100 years old.

Fig.19. Best blueberry muffin ever at Pie in The Sky. Robert Deniro approved.

Fig.20. Bib-wearing-lobster-eater and proud of it.

Portland Lobster Co 180 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101, United States

J's Oyster: 5 Portland Pier, Portland, ME 04101, United States

Harbor Fish Market: 9 Custom House Wharf Portland +1 207-775-0251

The Clam Shack: 2 Western Ave, Kennebunk, ME 04043, United States

The Maine Diner: 2265 Post Rd, Wells, ME 04090, United States

Cape Neddick Lobster Pound: 60 Shore Road, Cape Neddick, Maine 03902, United States

Pie in The Sky:1 River Rd, Cape Neddick, ME 03902, United States

Lucky Catch Cruises:170 Commercial St, Portland, ME 04101, United States

Too Many Animals, Not Enough Vegetables

Fig.1. Three thin slices of meat, one large garden salad.

“How many animals have you killed today?” A homeless man said to me as I descended to the Guy/Concordia metro station. I had just finished a class at Concordia and was heading home. The man, standing at the base of the escalators, had his hand out looking for some form of security. His belligerent rumblings were heard by all who flowed up and down the electronic steps, and with my shield up, I walked past him rather than give him the spare change he needed to save up enough for a trip to the SAQ. 

He asked me how many animals I killed because, at the time this occurred, I was considerably larger than I am today, larger by 150lbs, give or take a few.  This comment, apart from make me feel bad, made me think.  I wondered what the answer to his question was: how many chickens, cows, pigs and rabbits had I killed? How many ducks by way of chewing had died as a result of my appetite? Far more than if I ate solely for survival it would seem. While I didn’t do the math, I reckon I had killed far too many animals by way of decadent suppers and larger than necessary portions. And all this exacerbated by my ridiculous desire to chronicle my life as I lived to eat rather than humbly eating to live, and writing stories about that.  I thought about my family in Ripi, Italy, living off the farm. If the belligerent homeless man took a trip to Ripi and asked my uncle how many animals he had killed he would be fully capable of answering him: Two pigs, I veal and four sheep a year, two to three chickens and rabbits a week, and all this to feed a family of 5 adults. (as well as extended family on special occasions) I can tell you that the pigs are transformed into various cured salumi, as well as sausages and some chops. The veal is butchered and the meat vacuumed packed and frozen, as for the sheep, one on Easter and one at Christmas, another 2 vacuumed packed and frozen.

While we cannot all be humble farmers who live off the land, we can be more mindful of our animal consumption, not just as individuals but also as city dwellers, country dwellers, and inhabitants of North America as a whole.  New York Times food writer Mark Bittman holds that North Americans consume 10 billion cows a year. This is a staggering number for 25 percent of the world’s population to be consuming, most of the cows puréed and molded into processed foods and sold to fast food restaurants.  North American chicken consumption is in the 100’s of billions.

I’m not turning into a vegetarian any time soon, but frozen processed foods for me have been a thing of the past for quite a while now, and fast food visits are few and very far between.  As for how many animals I kill daily, I still don’t keep count but there are many days I don’t kill any.

Fig.2. Dry lettuce makes for a great salad.

Garden Salad with cheese and eggs

This lettuce is from my grandfather's garden, the cherry tomatoes are from Birri in the Jean Talon Market. The taste of something so fresh takes offence with each ingredient you add to it. If it’s fresh, keep it simple. The cheese and egg are there for protein’s sake. The key to a great salad is dry lettuce, so take the time to dry it properly. Once your lettuce is thoroughly dry, mix all of your ingredients together and eat. Perfect on hot, summer days.