The Hungry Italian

2012-02-04T07:22:00.000-05:00

Superbowl Snacks: Chicago Beef Sandwich Fig.1. This fine specimen came from Al's Beef in Chicago. My Superbowl parties have become more about what I'm serving than about football. Even people who's company I don't share Superbowl night with ask me what I'm making for the boys. Well I'm glad you asked, this year's Superbowl is made possible by the great city of Chicago. For me, a recent

2012-01-16T14:56:00.001-05:00

Leave The Cell Phone, Take The Cannoli Fig.1. A burger at Mr Steer with a side of curly fries. If I see one more hamburger, poutine, taco, pizza, or fish and chip joint open up within the Montreal area I’ll be one happy man. The majority of foodies tend to follow trends. If an influential food “authority” proclaims the next best thing to be, let’s say, falafel, everyone jumps on board. Social

2011-12-15T14:03:00.001-05:00

Inferno to the Rescue: A Karma-Christmas Story Fig.1 The Inferno team. The funny thing is that Marcella actually ran away with the bowl of pasta she's holding as soon as the picture was taken. Here comes another Christmas, and somewhere John Lennon is still asking, "So what have you done?" Before you all stop reading, let me assure you there won't be any preaching in this post; rather, this

2011-11-25T14:31:00.003-05:00

The Jean-Talon Market Gets a Book Fig.1. This book is filled with beautuful pictures and great recipes. As someone who spends a lot of time at The Jean Talon Market, it was about time someone wrote a book about Montreal’s oldest and biggest food market. About time because aside from the façade of food visible at The Jean-Talon Market, there’s a lot of history embedded within the roots of all

2011-10-29T10:45:00.002-04:00

Foraging For Real Mushrooms Fig.1. The cool dude holding one porcini is Adriano. The dorky one holding two is some guy we met in the woods and claimed to need a friend. He's still following us. Ask any mycophagist and they’ll tell you this was a great year to forage for mushrooms. Chanterelles and porcinis were especially in abundance due to the damp, humid mornings, and wet nights. Found

2011-10-16T17:53:00.000-04:00

Hot Sandwiches Montreal Could be Proud of Fig.1. Basi's lunch door is located on Shamrock, facing the market We foodies tend to complain a lot: not enough of this and not enough of that and why don’t we have food like this city or that city. Well we do, and often the great food we lament about not having slips right under our mouths.It’s a while I’ve known about Basi’s new lunch and take out

2011-10-07T15:08:00.001-04:00

Old Isn't Always Good Fig.1. Baked pasta. Disclaimer: It looks better than it tastes. It’s generally believed that old, traditional recipes will result in great tasting meals. That isn’t always the case as I discovered just last week. Sometimes tasty ingredients, such as cheese or cured meats, are just the type of elements a recipe needs to propel it from a good meal to an unforgettable one.

2011-09-14T22:24:00.001-04:00

Wild For Fungus Fig.1. Les Jardin Sauvage at The Jean Talon Market. Fig.2. A large variety of mushrooms and a few other surprise Some foragers I’m acquainted with have informed me that this is a great year for wild mushrooms, especially with the cool damp mornings of late. Mushrooms are fungus, which is a word that carries a somewhat bad connotation, especially when one thinks of feet. People

Tomatillos-Just Another Tomato

2011-09-02T21:29:00.000-04:00

Peeling Tomatillos Fig.1. Tomatillos with thier husks on at the Birri Kiosk in The Jean Talon Market. Tomatillos are fruits associated with tomatoes, and like tomatoes, are part of the nightshade family. They can be eaten both raw and cooked. The fruit is surrounded by a thin husk that begins to split open as the green fruit ripens. The taste of a tomatillo is acidic, tart and full flavored

2011-08-10T08:00:00.000-04:00

Nothing Sooths a Midnight Craving Like Nutella Fig.1. Eat the top and drink the bottom. I love getting surprises, especially when it has to do with food, well, in this case a drink.Many a cold coffee has been consumed this summer, (and not one from Tim Hortons I’m proud to say.) Vietnamese coffee is my all-time favorite, with a proper cold espresso a close second, but, as I sat thirsty, hot

2011-08-04T08:09:00.004-04:00

What's Yellow, Oily and Grown in Quebec?Fig.1. Rows upon rows of yellow. They're taller than they look.For the last two years a friend of mine has been urging me to come and visit his hometown of Upton, situated in the Eastern Townships. Of the many points of interest his small town of Upton has to offer, the one that caught my attention the most was Upton’s sunflower farm.Fig.1. It's not the

2011-07-27T08:27:00.004-04:00

Fresh Peas and Fava Beans, Let The Shucking BeginFig.1. Bushels of fresh peas and fava beans at Birri. Buy a bushel, get together with some family and friends, and shuck them. Peas and favas freeze very well.The sense of touch is not something we usually attribute to the food experience: Nose and mouth, we smell our food and taste our food. Our utensils create a barrier

2011-06-19T11:35:00.012-04:00

All This Inspiration is Making me Hungry, For Onions Fig.1. Colander of Spring goodies: Cucumbers, asparagus, radishes, and of course, green onions (or scallions). All local, all fresh.I just can't write or say enough about how the Jean Talon Market makes me feel. Each visit makes me anticipate the next: from the visuals to the scents, it's truly an experience that transcends simply "going food

2011-05-25T03:57:00.022-04:00

Eat Your Roots: Baby GarlicFig.1. At Birri, you can by baby garlic in the pot or cleaned in bundles. They're not as strong as regular garlic, and the 'garlic' taste does diminish after it's cooked.I for one am ready for some outdoor heat. It gets increasingly difficult to endure our frigid Quebec winters. Waiting for the various outdoor markets to open is like waiting for Christmas morning. A

2011-05-20T13:34:00.032-04:00

Italia in Festa: Leonardo Davinci comes to St Leonard Fig.1. Dr. Guiseppe Manisco stands behind one of his working, Davinci models. This machine is capable of lowering and lifting buckets of well water simultaneously.I've always been fascinated with characters. Someone, who for no apparent reason, just doesn't swim upstream with the rest of the tunnel-visioned members of society. A person who's

2011-05-10T19:42:00.013-04:00

Le Marchand du Bourg: The Best Dry Aged Rib Steaks in MontrealFig.1. Master butcher Marc Bourg standing in front of his signature, 40 day old, dry aged rib steaks, and as you can see by the picture, it's the whole rib.Le Marchand du Bourg is a place I stumbled on by chance. I was walking along Beaubien Street just east of Papineau when I came across signs on the window declaring meat to be within

2011-04-14T19:31:00.019-04:00

La Bête à Pain: The Staff of Montreal Fig.1. Just two door over from Le St-Urbain, La Bête à Pain is a great addition to Fleury Street.As I'm writing this article, I'm eating bread. Not just any bread, but bread from La Bête à Pain. A new bakery which opened this week and is headed by Le St-Urbain's very own, Marc André Royal. (The bakery is situated just two doors west of Le St-Urbain.)Eating

2011-04-09T06:38:00.051-04:00

A Tale of Two Veggies Fig.1. The batter around the asparagus traps the prosciutto. Eat these hot. Spring is weighing heavily on my mind these days. The peek-a-boo heat of the April sun teases; sprouting desires of driving around with the windows down and leaving my house with nothing but my Speedo on. So with that appetizing image in mind, let’s discuss asparagus, one of the first vegetables to

2011-03-31T21:13:00.029-04:00

Canadian Food Anyone? Fig.1. Hanging Caribou meat to freeze in Nunavut, Calgary Angus beef, Maritime Lobster, Pacific salmon and tortiere de Lac St-Jean. If I were to ask you to define Canadian Cuisine how would you respond? Is there even such a thing as Canadian food? Countries, such as Italy and China have very identifiable culinary traditions and staples, but when someone from China thinks

2011-03-23T20:11:00.027-04:00

Ravioli Stuffed With Olive Oil: Easier Said Than Stuffed Fig.1. When cut, the oil in the ravioli releases and mixes with the vin votto in the plate. This recipe is all about the olive oil, so make sure it's a good one.Much has been touted about olive oil. The benefits of good quality olive oil has advantages both from a nutritional aspect as well as taste; but olive oil conversations and research

2011-03-08T19:14:00.024-05:00

Zeppole di San Giuseppe-Fry Them And They Will Come(This is a tag-team article. After reading this article, click on the link provided below and read food writer, Marcella DeVincenzo’s take on Zeppole in Montreal.) Fig.1. Zeppole di San Giuseppe: fried dough and cream. Simple and good.The history behind zeppole di San Giuseppe isn’t well documented. Some historians speculate it derives from

2011-03-02T20:26:00.009-05:00

Celebrate The Woman in Your KitchenFig.1. My grandmother, Piacentina Viselli. This picture was taken shortly before she boarded a ship heading to the new world.Another round of the Montreal Highlights Festival has come to a close. This year, the festival celebrated women in the kitchen, a somewhat patronizing and outdated notion when we look at the role women have played in the domestic kitchen.

2011-02-15T21:03:00.021-05:00

Napoli, Music and Potatoes Fig.1. Antonio De Curtis, in the role of Toto. De Curtis sang in many commedie musicali in the 1960's. I had supper with an Italian expatriate last weekend. He began to tell me how impressed he was with the way in which the majority of young, Montreal Italians held on to the Italian language along with certain traditions, but, in the same breath said something that

2011-02-04T22:01:00.015-05:00

MuffulettaA New Orleans Sandwich with Sicilian RootsSuper Bowl Snacks, Part 3 Fig.1. Olive salad on the bottom, followed by meat, cheese, more meat, more cheese, and more olive salad. It all fits because the interior of the bread is hollowed out.A muffuletta is a sandwich steeped with tradition in New Orleans. Claimed to have originated in 1906 at the longstanding, Italian grocery store, Central

2011-02-01T20:36:00.007-05:00

Who Wants a Pork Cone? I do I do!Super Bowl Snacks, Part 2 Fig.1. Mortadella cones. The purée does begin to soften at room temperature so treat it like real ice cream and start licking.No, it’s not a strawberry cone, it’s a swine cone. Nothing soothes the Y chromosome quite like puréed pork. Super Bowl night, like any other gathering, requires a dessert course, and in my opinion, there’s no

2011-01-30T17:12:00.015-05:00

Super Bowl Snacks, Part 1 Fig.1. Mozzarella in carrozza is Italy's version of grilled cheese. Make sure you use a soft mozzarella to ensure the ooey gooey texture seen above.The Superbowl is coming up next Sunday, I'm hosting, and I couldn’t be more excited. Yes I’m happy the Packers have made it till the end, but I get more exited with thoughts of food: specifically, with having to plan and

2011-01-12T21:53:00.012-05:00

Would The Real Mortadella Please Stand Up!Fig.1. Mortadella sliced fresh by Fabrizio: silky, melt in your mouth and studded with pistachios. The mortadella forms are also much bigger in Italy than they are here.I can't think of a better way to start the year than with pork! Mortadella is by far the most misunderstood salumi. Unfortunately, the mortadella available to us here in Montreal is an

2010-12-13T20:46:00.026-05:00

Celebrate Noël a la Québécoise Fig.1. Chef Dany Patry of Charcuterie Noël shows off his cipaille Gaspesien.One of the great things about having my own web-site derives from the ability to post and blog about whatever I want. I don' t have to "run it" by an editor. There's no waiting for approval. I needn't worry if it "fits with the brand", and, best of all, I could write about the people and

2010-12-08T08:30:00.020-05:00

Apple GnocchiFig.1. Gnocchi for dessert, serve in one big plate, or individually in a martini glass for effect. As you can see above, this platter was influenced by Jackson Pollock.This year’s apple crop hasn’t been the best, too much heat and not enough rain according to the apple experts. It hasn’t stopped me from eating my fill though, and some varieties, such as russets and golden delicious

2010-11-29T18:50:00.010-05:00

Pasta WoesFig.1. Old wooden tools once used to cut pasta. I picked these up in Italy. You can buy them here at Quincaillerie Dante.I’ve been experimenting a lot lately with locally grown flour. I’m making pasta with just about any Quebec flour I can get my hands on: local whole wheat, spelt, kamut, barley, all purpose, and even Italy’s favorite, local durum wheat semolina, all grown and milled

2010-11-22T09:05:00.012-05:00

They're not all bad Fig.1. Cavolo nero pesto served over baccala and polenta. My rant a few posts ago sparked some noise from a fervent flurry of patrons, who, I’ve been scolded, are more than satisfied with their favorite Italian restaurants. “What’s wrong with meat sauce; you’ve never had the Alfredo sauce at {insert restaurant name here}; the fried calamari at my favorite restaurant is the

2010-11-08T19:04:00.015-05:00

Griliata Mista Fig.1. Keeping warm next to hot meat can only be appreciated when it's cold outside. So don your kitchen tongs and get out there.It might be getting cold out there but there are still plenty of perfectly, good barbecue days left before the grills get put away for the winter. (If you're one of those who grills all year round, good on you) The desire to grill in cold weather does

2010-10-31T07:44:00.014-04:00

Holy Poblano Batman Fig.1. Nothing smells as fine as grilled peppers.The outdoor part of the Jean-Talon Market is quickly winding down. The bins are full of root vegetables, apples, and the last of the fruits and vegetables; much of it being sold at a discount. Although I've preserved and frozen many seasonal vegetables this year, I'll miss that unique freshness which can only come from eating an

2010-10-21T20:56:00.012-04:00

Three Years of Great West Island Pizza Fig.1. Hanging out on warmer days sipping espresso. Fig.2. Pepper and cherry tomato pizza.Ahh the spicy olive and onion pizza from DelMonaco; just thinking about it evokes a lion size, stomach snarl. This week, DelMonaco Prêt-à-Manger celebrated its third year in operation. Three years of great pizza (DelMonaco’s pizzas are of the square variety much like

2010-10-10T09:41:00.014-04:00

Smells Bad But Tastes Great Fig.1. Giant cauliflower grown in St-Clet. Walking past the William Mattheeuws kiosk in the Jean-Talon Market (they own a cauliflower and broccoli farm in Saint-Clet) a couple of weeks ago, I was stopped dead in my tracks by a giant cauliflower. At $5.00 a head these beasts can feed the presiding members of the Bastarache commission for a week. I like cauliflower

2010-09-26T09:25:00.009-04:00

Italian Food by Any Other Name Would Taste as GoodFig.1. Cavolo nero is very popular in Tuscany. I bought these local, leafy greens at the Jean-Talon Market.It seems to me that there’s a problem with Italian (restaurant) food in Montreal. If restaurant offerings are indicative of anything it’s that Italian food consists primarily of calamari, pasta with some sort of meaty rosée sauce, and a

2010-09-19T17:13:00.009-04:00

Preserving Corn, à la Québécoise Fig.1. Corn this year is the best I've ever had, sweet and juicy.Québec corn is good this year; in fact, it’s the best I’ve ever had. When things are this good my mind tries to figure out ways to make it last, in this case it’s pretty easy, all it requires is a bit of effort.Freezing corn is simple enough: cut the kernels off of the cob, place the kernels on a

2010-08-30T19:47:00.011-04:00

Al Dante: A documentary about family, pizza, and MontrealFig.1. Stefano Faita is genuine and passionate about pizza; his shirt says it all.I received an email from the CBC asking me if I would review and blog about a documentary entitled Al Dante: Respect the Pizza. Al Dante is part of a six part summer series showcasing food, film and music in Montreal. While the show is about pizza, it’s also

2010-08-15T06:37:00.008-04:00

Old School Pasta Salad Fig.1. Il Talismano is a must have for serious Italian food enthusiasts and food historians.The more pasta research I do the more I realize North America is violating the tomato. A key part of my research involves old Italian cookbooks, and in these old cookbooks tomato skins and seeds are used and eaten. One such significant tome in Italian culinary history is a book

2010-07-31T08:49:00.024-04:00

Eating to a Different Beet Fig.1. Chioggia beets are quite beautiful to look at when raw; when cooked the beets turn pink. When fresh, beet leaves are perfectly edible, eat them in salads or cook them as you would rapini.A trip to the market these days is truly wonderful. Because of the heat everything is early. The fava beans are aplenty, as are string beans and broad beans, the mere sight of

2010-07-11T09:05:00.009-04:00

Antonio Pettinicchi: A Man Whose Ideals you can Taste Fig.1. Some of the products Antonio Pettinicchi brings with him to Montreal--unadulterated, natural and healthy.To say that Antonio Pettinicchi is passionate about the products he makes would be an understatement. Pettinicchi, who hails from the town of Lucito, located in the province of Campo basso, owns and operates a Azienda Agricola

2010-06-25T20:28:00.010-04:00

Mozzarella di Bufala: Better Warm Than ColdFig.1. A proper mozzarella di bufala is blissful. When warmed, the aromas are milky and lay claim to the animal from which it derives. I like to open the cheese into a pocket so it can collect the oil. Great ingredients like this require no fuss--assemble and eat.Sitting in a tiny restaurant in Ceprano waiting for whatever antipasti the chef deemed

2010-06-11T20:54:00.007-04:00

Korean Pulled Pork-Momofuku Style Fig.1. After 8 hours, and a final brush of brown sugar, the bo ssam gets that perfect deep, golden brown skin. The outside is sweet and crusty. Sometimes the best piece of meat you can barbecue is one that needs the least amount of attention—and one that doesn’t require a barbecue. Pulled pork has got a lot of attention within the last couple of years; probably

2010-05-26T21:08:00.021-04:00

Ingredient + Heat = Grilled Artichokes Fig.1. Big and small artichokes. An artichoke is a flower bud yet to blossom. The purple part you see is the actual flower, which, if left to grow would blossom. If the hairy "choke" part bothers you, just scoop it out with a small spoon. The smaller variety don't have the hairy chokes. Also, to test an artichoke's freshness, bend a leaf, if it snaps it's

2010-05-03T19:00:00.019-04:00

This Little Piggy Went to The Market {Read my new article in The Warehouse Magazine}Fig.1. Mr Birri places my lettuce and rosemary in a box. If you're planting a garden (and you should) this is the man to see.I think it’s safe to assume that winter is behind us. For me, warm weather propels me to the market; if fact, it’s a weekly ritual. I like going on Sunday mornings for many reasons, it’s

2010-04-26T08:42:00.014-04:00

Marcella and Mamma AgataFig.1. Mamma Agata's cookbook.Wouldn’t it be cool to speak to someone who has cooked for icons such as Humphrey Bogart, Fred Astaire, or Federico Fellini? Can you imagine the stories such a person could tell? Well, such a person exists, and her name is Mamma Agata. Mamma Agata runs a cooking school in Ravello (on the Amalfi Coast), she also has a cookbook filled with her

2010-04-19T22:07:00.023-04:00

Missing Italy, Missing FabrizioFig.1. I love this man. No it's not what you think, I love Fabrizio because he feeds me, usually food I've never had before. Culatello from Zibello, Lardo from one of his neighbours, or an obscure cheese from Sardinia, this man is has it all.Just back from a three week trip to Italy, and beside the jet lag, I’m finding it hard to re-adjust to my Montreal routine; it

2010-03-16T20:14:00.013-04:00

The Market Abounds(Read my review of Montreal, lunch, hot-spot, The Sparrow in Examiner.com) Fig.1. Le Cendrillon goat cheese, winner of best cheese 2009.Staring out the window on these sunny, spring days, my thoughts wander toward spring garlic and onions. If you’re like me, this warm air compels you to venture outdoors and straight to the Jean-Talon Market, and judging by the hordes of people I

2010-03-10T19:36:00.011-05:00

Setting the Standard for Italian BreadFig.1 The big holes in the flesh of the bread come from using bread flour, and from the long fermentation.I’ve been consumed by this Sullivan Street Bakery, bread book I got on my last trip to New York. I’m teaming with carbs and loving every minute of it, but, I’ve been neglecting my blog and for that I’m sorry. Some of you are tired of hearing it, but the

2010-02-24T16:57:00.015-05:00

Making Bread MatterFig.1. Located in the Hell's Kitchen section of Manhattan, my son waits for his croissant.Bread should matter more, according to Jim Lahey. It matters in France. It matters in Italy. Jim Lahey is the Founder of Sullivan Street Bakery in New York City, and once you’ve tasted his bread, it will matter to you too.Like most North Americans my mother bought sliced white bread on a

2010-02-08T17:54:00.013-05:00

Pigs in a Blanket-Italian StyleFig.1. It's just another way to make a sausage pannini but cooking everything together really gives it a special taste and texture. I’ve wanted to make these for a long time and there was no better day than yesterday; the Canadiens played an afternoon game followed by the Super Bowl, and Lisa and I were hosting. Here’s my version of a game day classic, it might be a

2010-02-04T20:50:00.015-05:00

Fregola di Sardegna Fig.1. Fregola is available in most specialty Italian stores, I purchase mine at Charcuterie Noel in Montreal North.For this post we remain in Sardinia. Fregola is pasta made with coarsely ground, durum wheat semolina. It’s often referred to as Sardinian couscous—a description which most likely stems from how natives attempt to describe fregola to the curious, hungry

2010-01-20T21:54:00.010-05:00

Malloreddus al Sugo di MaialeRead my first restaurant review for 2010 on examiner.com Fig.1. These Sardinian gnocchi are firm and hearty. Finish your plate, lie down, undo the waist button on your pants, and see how long it takes to digest these pillows of goodness. Those of you on a low carb regiment beware: This web site will overflow with pasta this year. My goal is to collect and document

2010-01-10T20:33:00.010-05:00

Quing Hua Dumpling-Asian Authenticity in MontrealTo see a lot more pictures of Qing Hua's dumplings, as well as some other menu items, go to Examiner.comFig.1. Steamed pork and cabbage dumplings. Each dumpling is filled with hot, savoury broth.Ting Liu walks into her restaurant between 8:00am and 9:00am every morning to prepare for the 11:00am opening. Her day ends around midnight after she’s

2010-01-06T16:44:00.020-05:00

Minestrone-The Ultimate Weight-Loss MealThe beginning of another year and yet again we’re bombarded with ads telling us to lose weight and exercise; all good things yes, but not if you give in the diet propaganda: Pills, Jenny Craig, Nutri System, Slim-Fast, along with all of the self-proclaiming weight loss gurus claiming to have found the secret to weight loss, will only exacerbate your weight

2009-12-25T10:37:00.008-05:00

Fresh Ricotta with Chopped MintFig.1. Many Italian grocery stores carry ricotta like this during the holiday season--I bought this one at Charcuterie Noel in Montreal North. It's a lot of cheese but it will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge.Sometimes Christmas does feel like a lot of work. Planning, shopping and transporting stuff in and out of the car gets rather tiresome. Cooking has

2009-12-22T08:33:00.010-05:00

Mustard--Italian Style(Looking for restaurants opened on Christmas day? Examiner.com can help.) Fig.1. This mostarda di frutta, which is made in Cremona, goes very well with any boiled meat from chicken to sausage.In Italy, mostarda is completely different than North American mustard. Very often referred to as Mostarda di Cremona, this fruit chutney consists of candied fruit, such as apricots,

2009-12-17T21:17:00.007-05:00

Thanks to You And TiramisuFig.1. This is a rustic looking tiramisu, this one is made directly on the serving plate; sometimes I'll make it in dessert cups, martini glasses or even in small Mason jars. (if you do it in a mason jar, add a few layers of your favorite jam.) While I knew the Gazette article was coming out, I could never have anticipated the response it got. The e-mails are still

2009-12-13T09:21:00.015-05:00

The Hungry Italian has written his letter to Santa. Read it at Examiner.comIt's Simply ChristmasFig.1. Bresaola, prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella and fresh figs, sprinkled with oregano and a drizzle of olive oil. Plates like these will make entertaining easy. This time of the year, use clementines or melon instead of figs.Fig.2. Eastern European specialty shops such as Slovenia and Ron Mish can

2009-12-04T19:35:00.004-05:00

Keep up with the latest Montreal restaurant news at Examiner.com Rich Raisin Squares-Christmas Baking ContinuesFig.1. Soft, buttery crust, moist, sticky center, and a firm, caramelized sugar top. The raisins, which represent the healthy portion of this recipe, are in there somewhere. You might have to play with the oven time to get them right--keep an eye on them during the last five minutes

2009-11-21T19:36:00.005-05:00

For Montreal restaurant news, come and visit me at The Montreal Examiner.com.Buttery Shortbread Fig.1. This traditional shortbread is dense, heavy, and very buttery. Christmas baking just wouldn’t be complete without shortbread. This dense, buttery, square of fat generating goodness is the epitome of the butter cookie.When it comes to shortbread I’m a purist: the old Scottish rule of flour,

2009-11-05T20:12:00.011-05:00

Sometimes a Sausage Can Make All The DifferenceFig.1. A perfect soup for the cold nights ahead. The Ukrainian Kovbasa (or kielbasa, as it's referred to by most people) is a porky, fatty, garlicky shaft of meaty goodness. I get mine at Ron Mish, whose variety and quality of Eastern European sausages is nothing short of incredible.Chalk this one up to the Ukrainian influence in my house; and also

2009-10-29T21:58:00.009-04:00

Shortie Bars-Let The Christmas Baking Begin Fig.1. Make sure you enjoy your efforts with a proper espresso before you give these squares away.It’s that time of year again in The Hungry Italian household. There’s 30lbs of butter in the freezer (I’m not exaggerating), and 30lbs of flour resting next to 30 lbs of sugar in the garage. My wife, Lisa, along with her mother and sister, bake about 30

2009-10-23T14:18:00.015-04:00

Flippin' Fat Pancakes Fig.1. Big, light, moist and fluffy. Our Canada magazine is having a pancake contest. If you have an old favorite or family pancake recipe send it in, there are $5000.00 worth of prizes to be won, courtesy of T-Fal. Go to http://www.ourcanada.ca/ for all the details. The deadline to enter is November 20th, we'll be narrowing it

2009-10-13T20:56:00.014-04:00

Tomato Sauce ReduxFig.1. For proper canning techniques go to http://www.canningpantry.com/index.html I’m starting to think that my obsession with tomatoes is unhealthy. I’ve written so much about them, both for the magazine and for this site, that I was sure there was nothing else to say: I was wrong. What keeps driving me is the never-ending (and unattainable) quest for the perfect tomato sauce:

2009-09-26T10:06:00.022-04:00

Basi, Not Your Typical Italian Restaurant My first thought upon seeing Basi was that yet again someone would try to make this well situated spot work. Located next to the Jean-Talon Market, this local sees a lot of traffic in the morning and afternoon, but much less at night, and, even less during the cold season.The menu reveals traditional Italian fare, albeit with a modern and innovative touch

2009-09-08T20:56:00.042-04:00

Eat your Maine from a basket.Fig.1. Swimming in a sea of beige. Clockwise from left: Clam chowder served in a bread bowl, fried scallops, fried clams and fried haddock and chips. All from Bob's Clam Hut.I’m a sucker for food in a basket. It comes with the expectation of having to eat with your fingers and the absence of pretension. My recent trip to Maine was packed with such unpretentious and

2009-08-30T08:18:00.012-04:00

Getting Those Taste Buds Back in ShapeWhile I agree with the wisdom of Homer Simpson that you don’t make friends with salad I would have to maintain that there are seasons where a salad can be a revelation. Farmer’ Markets are currently teeming with fresh produce that could convert any vegetable hater. Experimenting with salads is also a great way to de-sensitize your taste buds.Years of

2009-07-27T21:34:00.009-04:00

Summer Annuals Good Enough Eat Fig.1. If you find flowers this beautiful, leave them wholeZucchini flowers blossom just as the little fruits begin to take shape. The female blossoms are the ones which hold the small emerging zucchini or “marrow”, the male flowers derive solely from the stem or stalk of the plant. The male flower is smaller than the

2009-07-09T20:59:00.009-04:00

-GRILLING VEGETABLES THE RIGHT WAY Fig.1. These vegetables were done with a little balsamic vinegar, olive oil, chopped garlic and ginger, and salt and pepper. Let any marinadedrain from the vegetable pieces before putting them on the grill toprevent any flare-ups.In keeping with grilling, let’s talk about vegetables. A visit to the Jean Talon Market yesterday was just the inspiration I needed.

2009-06-13T13:33:00.020-04:00

Grilled Pizza Fig.1. Grilled focaccia: chopped rosemary and garlic mixed with olive oil and sea salt.Fig.2. Grilled Margherita: sliced cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and fresh mozzarella finished with a light drizzle of olive oil.If I had to choose one item or dish that I get asked about the most at any social gathering it would unquestionably have to be grilled pizza. I have been grilling pizza on

2009-05-14T19:15:00.019-04:00

Delmonaco: Keeping the Tradition Alive Fig.1. Delmonaco co-owner Luigi Sabelli behind a refridgerated counter filled with all manners of heart warming Italian staples.My write-ups usually consist of recipes which feature traditional or forgotten meals of Italian origin. Seldom, if ever, do I write about Montreal food establishments. (I prefer to leave that to much more capable food sites such as

2009-04-26T19:40:00.009-04:00

Italy Needs Help Fig.1. A coroner places a the body of a young girl next to her Mother.It’s been almost a month since a devastating earthquake hit L`Aquila in the Abruzzo region of central Italy. Most of us have seen the footage on television, and, like me, I’m sure you all felt bad watching the images of carnage and destruction that flashed during the six o’clock news. The problem, however,

2009-03-21T08:54:00.011-04:00

Meatloaf to the Rescue Fig.1. The key to a good meatloaf is not to dry it out. Cooking it in a glass loaf pan will insure it cooks in its own juices.I received some comments from my editors with regard to the last article I wrote for Our Canada Magazine. It appears that some people seem to think that my recipes are too hoity-toity. At first I thought—peasants, serfs; what do they know, who doesn’

2009-03-01T17:32:00.007-05:00

Grating Makes for a Great Base Fig.1. It's all about flavor with grating, from soups to cole slaw it'll willchange the way your food taste.The next soffritto on our list puts into practice the art of grating. The vegetable base is the same as in the previous recipes, but the manner in which they are prepared is somewhat unorthodox. By grating the vegetables, you enable the very essence of their

2009-02-03T20:14:00.015-05:00

The Battuto Technique Fig.1. When pounded thoroughly, the bacon and garlic will become a smooth paste. If it's too dryadd a few drops of olive oil.This soffritto employs the battuto technique. A battuto—which literally translates to pound or hit —involves pounding two or more ingredients into a paste thereby releasing their flavours. In her book, The Oxford Companion to Italian Food, Gillian

In the Beginning fry a Soffritto

2009-01-21T19:49:00.012-05:00

Fig.1. This soffritto starts with a small dice. Having the ingredients roughly the same size insures they cook evenly.I thought it would be a good idea to start the year off from the beginning. A soffritto is a preliminary aromatic preparation which is the base and foundation of most, if not all, Italian cooking. But like all things a soffritto needs to be done right. While there are no set

My Ukrainian Mother-in-Law's Lasagna Bolognese

2008-12-22T20:15:00.008-05:00

Fig.1. This is my 2 nd favorite lasagna, and I'm not just saying this to earn brownie points with my Mother-in-Law. Are you fed up of people telling you that you’re out of time? Probably not, most of us are only too happy to subscribe to such sentiments, but to quote Public Enemy, “don’t believe the hype.” You have more time than you realize; in fact, we have nothing but time, it’s perpetual and

Christmas Biscotti

2008-11-30T18:51:00.013-05:00

Fig.1. Christmas biscotti with pistachio and dries cranberry.I wrote this recipe for the November/Christmas issue of More of our Canada Magazine. It's a basic biscotti recipe but the addition of ground almonds gives them a nuttier taste as well as a better texture. Space in the magazine is somewhat limited so here are some additional pictures for those

Flank for Frank

2008-11-25T18:49:00.004-05:00

----------------------------------------------------------------------- Fig.1. Flank steak with mushrooms and baby arugulaLast year my friend Frank and his brothers bought a cow from a farmer in the Eastern Townships. It was a five hundred pound, 18 month old grain fed calf that was never given any hormones or antibiotics. The beast cost $2.00 a pound

Relish

2008-10-28T18:57:00.023-04:00

-----------------------------------------------------------------------This is for all of you who have a garden in the backyard; don’t let those green tomatoes go to waste, it’s time to preserve. Nothing warms the heart more than a well stocked cold room—food security for those barren cold winter days.Relish need not simply be resigned to hamburgers. Serve as an antipasto, as a bruschetta, with

Nothing Like a Quebec Pepper

2008-10-02T19:51:00.029-04:00

-----------------------------------------------------Fig.1. Traditional Calabrese peppers, both mild and spicy, are hung out in the sun to dry. They are best when still chewy. They are eaten raw or fried. Caught a virus last week and the doctor’s orders were to put my feet up for a few days. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to watch The Sopranos again from the very beginning. After getting

Hungry For Tomatoes

2008-09-13T10:06:00.018-04:00

You’ve got to love this time of year. My last visit to the market brought me to tears and it’s all because of the visuals. Those plentiful bushels of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants make me want to swim in them—with my swimming trunks' on of course.The earth has offered up her bounty; it’s time to taste the food the way it was meant to be tasted. I found these small, Jingle Bell peppers over at

Little Blue Candy

2008-09-05T12:51:00.013-04:00

Fig. 1. Spread the blueberries out on a cookie sheet, use a piece of brown paper to help prevent sticking.It’s come to my attention that some readers feel my articles are too long; well I’m listening, so in keeping with the diminutive let’s talk about blueberries.The plump blueberries, which are found in and around Montreal, are cultivated. The small, sweet berries, which

Little Italy Needs to Start Thinking Big

2008-08-16T22:25:00.044-04:00

Fig.1 Italian flag throwersOur three levels of government, as well as the Congres National des Italo-Canadiens, have graced us with yet another Semaine Italienne de Montreal; this, the 15th edition, was once again held in Little Italy. And while I greatly commend all of the organizers for supporting and promoting Italian culture within all of the Montreal communities, I do take issue with the way

Italian Corn

2008-08-13T20:31:00.067-04:00

Fig. 1 Despite the bad weather, Mario's new cookbook inspires the grill hound to get out there and try new things. My wife is convinced that Italians have a way of making everything their own. She contends that it isn’t enough for our egos to bask in the fact that it took an Italian to figure out that the earth revolves around the sun, or that an Italian discovered the New World; or that we

Vile Weed

2008-07-31T11:59:00.013-04:00

There’s something bittersweet about discovering something new. Bitter because just as I thought my knowledge of Italian ingredients had reached a certain level, I discover something I didn’t even know existed; and sweet because just as I thought my knowledge of Italian ingredients had reached a certain level, I discover something I didn’t even know existed.Indeed, this was the conundrum realized

So Many Berries so Little Time

2008-07-12T07:51:00.035-04:00

Fig. 1. One full crate, twelve heaping pintsLocal Quebec strawberries are, at this moment, perfect. One of my favourite farmer’s markets had the ruby red, sweet berries on special this week--$12.00 a crate compared to $20.00 (a crate contains 12 pints). Seemed like the perfect excuse to make jam.Now I know most of you are probably thinking—jam, who has time for that—but before you google

Winter Bulbs, Spring Onions

2008-06-29T09:29:00.012-04:00

Fig 1. Onions planted by my grandfather last autumn. 5 months later. presto. The marvel of spring never ceases to amaze me, even more so this year considering the brutal winter we had here in Montreal. Yet despite the severity of this year’s wintry ordeal, the spring onions and garlic emerged all the same; in fact, the large amount of snow might have helped the spring bloom as the blanket of snow

Sacred "Sangwiches"

2008-06-11T22:09:00.013-04:00

For Italians, there are two panini that are coveted above all others. Indeed, possessing one of these majestic “sangwiches” in high school would create quite a predicament: being forced to share, being bribed, or somebody making you an offer you couldn’t refuse were just some of the tight spots the hungry students would find themselves in. One of these is the breaded veal cutlet panini and the

Nonna's Meatballs

2008-05-21T18:59:00.009-04:00

I want to thank everyone who called or e-mailed me with regards to my Mother’s Day story in the Montreal Gazette. The accolades are very much appreciated. My grandmother was quite taken back by seeing her picture in the paper and still wonders how much I paid for it. I know there are people who didn’t see the article so in this post I’m reprinting the article exactly as it appeared (except for

Do You Know Your Farmer?

2008-05-08T20:10:00.040-04:00

------------------------------------------------------------------------------Author and farming advocate Margaret Webb was at Bon Appetit Cookbooks on Tuesday, May 6th to speak about her new book, Apples to Oysters: A Food Lover’s Guide to Canadian Farms. In her book, Webb takes the reader on a cross-country visit to eleven Canadian farms and introduces us to eleven very distinctive,

Marche Gourmand Laval

2008-05-03T09:03:00.009-04:00

Food lovers in Laval can now rejoice. The tides of culinary inferiority between islands are slowly changing. Along with our farmer's market, Marche 440--which is located on the 440 service road next to Club Price, foodies now have another haven to obsess over.The Marche Gourmand is located at, 2888 avenue du Cosmodome, and is part of the obscenely over-developed Centropolis complexe. I decided

Italian Food for a Good Cause

2008-04-27T20:02:00.013-04:00

_______________________________________________ Fig A, Ossobucco Milanese con polenta e rapini. On Saturday, February 23rd, Princess Mattress held its first Italian market gourmet gala, the proceeds of which to benefit the Quebec cystic fibrosis foundation. The event, which was held at Buffet Amiens, was not only a resounding success, but also a testament to everything Italian. Heartfelt thanks

Patient Vines

2008-04-09T21:38:00.009-04:00

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------I’d been to Italy before, but this time I was going to help my uncle and grandfather make wine. A traditionalist, I had always wanted to experience wine making in my ancestral home, this would be my first time doing so. What I didn’t count on however, was that the real lesson would have more to do with the way I worked

How to Ratatouille

2008-04-09T20:57:00.009-04:00

It doesn’t get any more rustic than ratatouille. Although the name is French, there can be no country of origin for this dish because it exists in every cuisine in one form or another. The purpose of this article, however, is not to aggravate the French, but to learn how to make ratatouille with someone else.Recipes are inherently solitary. A person will read a cookbook alone, get excited about a

Packaging Sells Salami

2008-03-29T17:49:00.022-04:00

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------I picked up this salami mainly because of its packaging. The label reads "Made by hand with love." Anyone who knows me will tell you that making things with love is the only way to do something; especially when it comes to food. The salami is named, "Rosette de Lyon" which I guess makes it French, which means that I

Guanciale

2008-03-07T20:28:00.005-05:00

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------Guanciale is made from the cheek of a pig. It is salted and cured much like pancetta, unlike pancetta or bacon however, guanciale has a much higher fat content, and is not smoked. A pig's cheek is not heavily laden with meat; however, the little meat that does line the cheek has a very unique flavour and is actually

Carbonara- Hold the Cream Please.

2008-03-01T11:27:00.013-05:00

Sure, at first glance the recipe seems easy, docile, and straightforward, but I assure you nothing could be further from the truth. This unassuming creation can wreak havoc on even the most seasoned of cooks. Just ask any cook if they’ve curdled any eggs lately and see whether they can answer you with a straight face.The origin of Pasta alla Carbonara is uncertain. First published accounts of a

Penne with sausage and rapini

2008-01-26T10:02:00.000-05:00

For those of you who can't appreciate the bitter, tart, astringent, acrid, and otherwise vile taste of rapini on their own, mixing them with pasta is a great way to get a dose of these healthy, leafy greens. Now maybe I'm being a little too harsh on rapini, but you would be to if your father had spent most of his life trying to shove them down your throat. I boil the rapini in the same